Author Archives: toastofbohemia

Mělník, A Dowery of Wine

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Mělník spotted!

Mělnické Vinobraní  21 – 23 September 2012

A large smile dimpled his reddened cheeks as he took a sip from his third glass of the equally red  Zámek Mělník.  It was the wine he had been looking for in a country whose fermenting skills are strongly directed elsewhere.  The wine itself, a mixture of Pinot Noir and St. Laurent  grapes, was medium bodied with a tart accent whispering forest fruits, which was precisely why he loved it and the pub-going natives, on average, seemed to avoid it, preferring to drink their water-down, poor-excuse of a wine, cheap Frankovka (Lemberger).  She brought to his attention that the original vines were imported from Burgundy by none other than the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV.  It was all making sense to him now. With numerous vineyards and many decent wines coming from the region, Mělník, once a dowery town of Czech Queens, is the Bohemia’s little jab at the country’s wine giant, South Moravia.

At her urging they departed for Mělník that morning from Holešovice Nádraží bus station.  40 minutes later they could spy the town’s most notable landmark from afar — the church tower overlooking the confluence of the Vltava and Elbe.  A visit to the clock tower teahouse equipped with an ingenious dumbwaiter, a creep through the bone-stacked charnel house and a gaze at the castle‘s courtyard and sgraffiti later and there was only one more destination on our agenda to be had.  As a typical regional museum it dictated the history and nature of the region while also offering rotating exhibitions,  but the vaults below housed the real treat for him, the wine cellar. Sitting across a large wooden table from her, the entrance was closed, the candles lit and the first bottle opened.

By mid September they would celebrate vinobraní (wine festival) not in Moravia but back in Mělník.  This time he came for a less mature yet more wild version of wine, burčák.  This cider-like early tapped wine is still in the process of fermenting, which he was convinced meant he would be in the continual process of getting drunk, even after he had stopped.  Regardless, he proceeded to enjoy the two varieties, red and white — sure, this cloudy booze is more precisely named after its grapes, but, for him,  requesting  red or white would suffice — throughout the afternoon and into the evening.  Live music of all genres were on hand — the country and folk stage attracting them, while Czech veterans of classic rock and bigbeat held the focus of the majority —  yet most were tinted a bit too wholesome for his taste.  Sensing his momentary boredom she grabbed his hand and led him to the smaller square to witness a medieval fencing match which nearly turned into a real one due to some spilled burčák in the crowd.

As night fell,  they were treated to a wonderful fireworks display on par with others he had witnessed at far grander occasions.  Boom!, pop!, boom! went his burčák-burdened belly.   Shortly there after he stumbled to his knees and collapsed forward towards the east, as if to mock Moravia, but sadly it was no mocking gesture, only a final one. She, slightly irritated yet wonderfully understanding, lifted him up and helped him home.

Not Your Average Burgers

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Tandoori Burger in all its glory

It’s summer and I can’t help wanting to grill every lunch and dinner… hell!, I am sure a barbecue bacon and egg breakfast could work somehow.  Even now as August hints at autumn, I crave the primal process. When most people think about grilling, burgers come to mind.  And they should.  A grilled burger can reach a point of magnificence if properly chosen, minced, seasoned, shaped, and timed, not to mention the essential accompaniments and condiments.  While the common beef burger with melted cheddar and a lightly toasted bun is just fine in my book, I sometimes like to tease my palate with slightly more exotic variations.

One of my favorites is my ode to the English Sunday roast,  a lamb burger with mint sauce mayonnaise.  Lamb patties in Czechia?, you sarcastically ask.  Yes, minced or already in patty form (as well as cuts), lamb is increasingly easy to get here.  I actually just popped into my local Albert and picked up three organic lamb patties which claim to be raised in the “Czech mountains”.  While, I prefer to buy the minced version, so I can add my own herbs and spices (garlic, thyme, rosemary, p&s), the Albert patties are not badly seasoned at all.  Another, albeit more expensive, shop is Robertson, of course.  Their lamb hails from Middle Earth and the extra price is sometimes worth it.  And don’t be shy to go into your local halal butcher and ask if they can mince some lamb for you.  This is where you can get a real bargain; great fresh meat at a decent price.  I have been told many of the halal shop’s sheep are sourced from Germany.

Prepared for making Lamb Burgers

Let’s move on to the extras . For the sole condiment star of the show we have mint sauce mayo.  I prefer a light mayonnaise to mix with the mint sauce, allowing the herb to rule flavor-wise.  Both Robertson and Marks & Spencer carry top-notch mint sauce, but  actually it isn’t that difficult to make your own.  Like many once  hard-to-get items, mild and medium cheddars seem to be available in most major market chains, while the aged variety, only at specialty shops, e.g., Robertson. I usually seek the latter, and, sometimes, it’s perfectly fine without any cheese. While the mint sauce mayonnaise is crucial to this recipe, it’s really up to you, what should accompany your lamb burger.  I  prefer sliced red onion and some sort of non-iceberg lettuce (romaine, rocket, etc.) as well as sliced tomato if I can find a big-enough, juicy one, willingly of the beefsteak variety. Buns? Yeah, I will go on about them later.

I suggest serving the burger with roasted or, if you have the time, *lightly-herbed grilled potatoes to fit with the English roast theme.  Then again, some fat steak fries do the trick wonderfully.

Onward to influences from farther climes. I stumbled upon my tandoori burger recipe a year ago when asked to prepare something for a friends’ grill party.  I had found some decent minced organic beef at Albert (this market can surprise every now and then) which appeared to have the right proportion of fat (20 – 30%) to ensure top juiciness levels.  While this could have been enough, I wanted to surprise my friends, so I rummaged through my spices.  As you will learn from this blog, I love to cook Indian dishes and, accordingly, I have many Indian spices at hand. I chose my premixed tandoori masala seasoning.  Yes, I know, it is more commonly paired with chicken, and, yes, I know the majority of Indians would never eat a cow.  Regardless, I sacrilegiously ventured on.  I diced some fresh red chili peppers, and with the tandoori spice kneaded both into the meat until evenly dispersed and then shaped them into proper patties. The meat became a magnificent lustful red, suitable for the amount of heat I had added; these aren’t burgers for the weak-hearted (read stomached).

What a wonderful color

For the sauce I recommend a mixture chopped shallots and minced garlic whipped up with some plain yogurt.  My friends have been known to forgo  this mixture when the ingredients aren’t at hand and instead fire it up even more with some Sriracha or sambal hot sauce.  I personally prefer the harmonious balance of  the spice-laden meat and the yogurt.  If cheese is necessary,  thin slices of the Czech parmesan Gran Moravia won’t detract from the other more exotic flavors.  One to three grilled slices of bell pepper (per burger) and some rocket (or lettuce of choice), and you are set to savor a burger that definitely veers eastward from your father’s old recipe.

A few last things to mention:  If you can only get your hands on preformed patties, be sure to pull out your tenderizer and flatten them even more increasing the circumference since they are often formed much smaller than the buns available.  Make a small divot in the center of each patty with your thumb just before placing them on the grill. This added depression will ensure the burgers do not puff up when cooking.

Divot those patties!

As many of you already know, houska is Czech for bun, but these Slavic buns do not meet burger standards at all.  They are usually small and sweet, but worst of all, they crumble when halving and sometimes even disintegrate upon your first bite.  Do not use housky!  Tesco and Billa usually carry prepackaged American-style hamburger buns (four per bag).  While not amazing, they are the closest I have found to this State-side staple.  Alternatively, you can try small ciabatta bread (sometimes with onion, olive or other flavors) or, especially for the tandoori burger, thick pita bread cut to make pockets could be fun.

To paraphrase a recent BBC Food Programme’s podcast on Camping Food, our brain has evolved specifically around the fire; our society developed around cooking around fire. Cooking in the modern sterile confines of the kitchen, while an enjoyable hobby of mine, never feels as natural as being outside with friends and family standing over a grill or encircling a fire. Smells of  smoke entwined with searing meat, warm faces aglow from dancing flames while voices intermingle with cracking and popping char — since the dawn of mankind this experience has been ours.   BBQing is in our DNA.   Go out there and be a human, and grill!  …A tasty burger perhaps?

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LAMB BURGERS

What you need:

* approx. 300 g minced lamb meat or 4 ready-made lamb patties

Lamb Burger assemblage

* 4 buns of choice

* 4 slices of medium to aged cheddar (medium melts better but aged adds distinct sharpness)

* Mayonnaise

* Mint sauce

* 1 red onion sliced

* Lettuce of choice

* If meat is not preseasoned:

– tblsp of rosemary sprigs (dry or fresh)

– 1/2 tblsp of thyme

– 1-2 minced garlic cloves

How to do it:

1)  Mix chilies and rosemary into meat or patties (if minced meat, shape into 4 patties).  It is important make the patties a larger circumference than the buns as the burgers will plump and shrink while grilling (you may have to make the ready-made patties larger as well). You can use a meat tenderizer to help you with this.

2) Mix half a container of mayonnaise with several tablespoons of mint sauce to taste.

3)  Prepare grill and wait until charcoals are turning white and spread them evenly throughout.

4)  Place patties on grill and cook for about 5 minutes and both sides.

5)  With one minute to go on the second side, place sliced cheese over the patties and heat until melted.  Also add sliced buns cut side down on grill to lightly toast for a minute

6)  Slather mint-mayonnaise on both sides of the buns and stack cheese lamb burger with lettuce and onion and serve.

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TANDOORI MASALA BEEF BURGERS

What you need:

* approx. 300 g minced beef meat or 4 ready-made beef patties

Melt that cheese, toast those buns

* 4 buns of choice (alternatively, 4 thick pita breads sliced open to make a pocket)

* 4 slices of Gran Morava cheese (a parmesan or aged cheddar could substitute)

* 1 large chili or several crushed dried bird’s eye chilies

* approx. 4 tbsp of tandoori masala seasoning

* 1  container white yogurt

* 4-5 small shallots chopped

* 1-2 cloves of garlic minced

* 1 large yellow or green bell pepper sliced

* lettuce of choice (rocket seems to bring a nice bitterness to the stack)

How to do it:

1)  Mix chilies and tandoori seasoning into meat or patties (if minced meat, shape into 4 patties).  It is important make the patties a larger circumference than the buns as the burgers will plump and shrink while grilling (you may have to make the ready-made patties larger as well). You can use a meat tenderizer to help you with this.

2) Mix the container of yogurt with minced garlic and shallots.

3)  Prepare grill and wait until charcoals are turning white and spread them evenly throughout.

4)  Place patties on grill and cook for about 5 minutes and both sides.

5) After flipping the meat, add the sliced bell peppers to the grill for the remaining time being careful to flip them accordingly.

6)  With one minute to go on the second side, place sliced cheese over the patties and heat until melted.  Also add sliced buns cut side down on grill to lightly toast for a minute

7)  Slather yogurt on both sides of the buns and stack cheese burger with lettuce and bell pepper and serve.

Celebrating the Fifth Year of Irish Afternoon

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or Shameless Self Promotion

Five years ago I was sitting with the owners of the country pub Zvířátka (Little Creatures) at our local wine bar in Roztoky u Prahy, a forested town not 6 km north of Prague, putting back a few glasses. It was early March and the subject came up that St. Patrick’s Day was soon to be. Knowing that I am the son of an Irish man and had spent many years in Irish-heavy America, these curious publicans questioned me about all things connected with the celebration. I could have simply said it was mostly about drinking but instead suggested it would be much better to simply show them.

With only a few weeks before the day, we quickly planned Irish Afternoon, Irské O‘dpolene (the apostrophe added for effect). We decided to make it a collaborative event between my school and their pub. Not wanting it to be solely about the tipple, I put together some recipes, including a hearty Irish beef stew using stout and red wine and a savory slow roasted lamb straight off the spit served with potatoes and mint sauce. We also offered starters in the form of lamb sausages and hot & spicy pork sausages. Okay, without doubt alcohol plays a huge part, so I suggested the drinks; whiskey , no doubt, not only straight but in the form of an Irish Highball, a mix of ginger ale, that said firewater and ice, and, of course, the beer known as “black magic”. They ordered the ingredients, much of it coming from the local British butcher and retailer Robertsons, and attempted to get a keg of Guinness. Unfortunately, due to an inflexible distributor the latter could only be had if one were to sign a long-term contract, so we opted for a domestic Irish style stout, Staropramen Kelt, a surprisingly tasty well-rated cream stout for that matter, instead. The Irish singer Travis O’Neill agreed to improvise an Irish-esque session. On Sunday 16 March 2008 our first Paddy’s party went down without any major hitches.

Vintage Wine

While through the years the dishes have mostly stayed the same, 3 years ago Staropramen stopped brewing their Kelt beer due to low domestic sales (R.I.P.). We turned our attention to Primátor, a Náchod brewery. Primátor’s Stout, an oatmeal stout, became our new celebratory beer. This lightly carbonated creation delivers dark roasted malts channeling rich black coffee with hints of a caramel aftertaste.

The second year we invited a group of musicians hailing from Ireland, France, and Spain. They put on an excellent Irish folk jam session. For the last two years, (and continuing this year), Irish Afternoon has experienced the manic energy of Vintage Wine, a musically talented group of Czech hibernophiles. Several of the members honed their skills busking in many a drizzling Irish town, including the charismatic front man Petr Polák whose gruff voice and sailor vocabulary ensure an atmosphere suitable for drinking and other debauched merriment. The band consists of guitars, drums (sometimes a bodhran) a violin, a mandolin and often a visiting accordion and pipes. From upbeat ballads and woeful jigs to a wonderful violin-fueled rendition of Kiss from the Last of the Mohicans soundtrack , their music is fun if not damn right impressive. Many a dance off has been known happen in the pub’s cozy space.

For the first time this year, Marpek Whiskyteria will host an Irish whiskey tasting table. Co-owner and whisk(e)y fanatic, Honza Pekárek, will offer up to five different whiskeys including a single malt and an aged distill. He ensures there will be something for everyone and I trust him; this guy knows his whisk(e)y.

Coming up on my fifth year hosting Irish Afternoon, I am assured the atmosphere will be just as friendly and enthusiastic as those before. The event has continued to grow in popularity since its inception with loyal locals and neighboring villagers as well as city slicking Praguers attending en masse through out the day. Some come during the afternoon for a wholesome bite and a pint, which they have been able to enjoy in Zvířátka’s beer garden since the last three events have been under mild weather, while others don’t appear until the sun has set and are prepared to dance and down the whiskey into the night. While this year’s Afternoon comes exactly one week before St. Patrick’s Day, it by no means will lack in Irish spirit.

Roasted Lamb and Irish Stew

IRISH SPECIALITES

Primátor Stout …35 Kč

Whiskey (Jameson, Tullamore) …50 Kč

Irish Highball …60 Kč

Irish Beef Stew* …85 Kč

3 Lamb Sausages** …75 Kč

3 Hot & Spicy Sausages** …65 Kč

Grilled Lamb w/ mint sauce*** …150 Kč

*served w/bread, ** served w/ bread and mustard, *** served w/ potatoes and sour cream

WHEN: Saturday 10 March 2012 starting at 3 0’clock, closing around midnight

WHERE: Hospůdka Zvířátka, Tiché Údolí 66, Roztoky

Petr Polák of Vintage Wine

Irish Afternoon 2011

A lonely drummer

Getting jiggy with it


Mimicking Shalamar’s Amazing Chana Masala

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Or chickpeas at their finest

All the ingredients? Check!

If I were to ever become a vegan, which I certainly will not*, I would be sure to pick up more Indian cookbooks. Many recipes from this subcontinent seem to suffer not a bit from the exclusion of any animal products. In fact, I would argue that Indian dishes, in all their regional variants (including the closely related cuisines of Pakistan and Bangladesh), have more vegan and vegetarian offers that can satisfy meat eaters than any other cuisine. This is simply because they have taken the use of spice to an art form. Savoriness doesn’t always have to involve meat, my friends. Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy a spicy lamb madras as much as any drunken London lad leaving a late night disco and all summer long I relish a well marinated tandoori chicken fresh off the grill, but the non meat dishes can be equally sublime. This brings me to my favorite Indian dish of late: Chana Masala.

Great fruit and veg shop on Dejvická

Although, often seeing it on Indian restaurant menus, I only recently had my first taste of Chana Masala from a friend who had ordered it delivery from Prague 6’s Shalamar Restaurant. Oh my!, was it amazing. Robust with a plethora of spices, combined with the meatiness of chickpea, it missed not a thing. I had an instant food crush and desperately needed to master this recipe. …So, I started researching and experimenting.

While recognizing some of the ingredients, more specifically the spices, in the dish, I did not know all the specifics. I consulted my copy of Classic Indian Cooking by Julie Sahni, several recipe sites and even Wikipedia. The list of ingredients was rather large but luckily I already had many at home.

According to Wikipedia, it is a popular mainly in the Punjab region of northern-India, and also notably in the regions of Gujarat. In Gujarat and Rajasthani areas, where it goes by chloe bhature, it is commonly cooked dry, with tangy spices and is often eaten with a type of fried bread.  A friend reported that on his stint in India it was more common for locals, as well as visitors, to pick up a bowl of these slightly sour and spicy beans from street vendors, although they can be found in proper restaurants.

This was the first time I had come across amchoor, a spice I now know comes from dried mango and adds a sour or citric taste to dishes.  For the life of me, I could not find it anywhere for my first two attempts at this dish, so I discovered online that lime juice can make an acceptable substitute. Eventually, I did find amchoor powder at Indicke Centrum in Dejvice (Národní obrany). Most other spices could be found at Shalamar Food Store  and the Halal shop on Puškinovo námesti.

Fresh coriander is now available in potted form in many Albert and Tesco supermarkets, but, from my experience, these potted herbs last not four days. Often wilting no matter what you do before you have a chance to use them. I prefer to buy coriander leaves from one of the many Vietnamese owned fruit and veg shops about town, a very well stocked one is found on Dejvická street near Hradčanská metro station. They often come in a resealable plastic bags and still retain a lovely aroma**. If you take a damp paper towel and wrap the stems and reseal them, they can last up to two weeks in your fridge.

Ah! Deliciousness. Yes, that’s mint instead of coriander. I ran out just before this photo.

Chickpeas, while I am quite aware of these high protein legumes, have always been a bit of a pain in the #%% to prepare. When buying dry beans, the package often recommends soaking them over night and voila… THIS NEVER WORKS FOR ME. Instead, it is better to do said soaking (or not) and boil them for at least 2 hours,  your mouth being the ultimate judge of time and texture, and rinse and drain them before adding them to process.

After trying my eager hand at this dish several times, what follows below is, what I consider, my closest version, so far, to that awesome Chana Masala I originally tasted from Shalamar.  I hope you too can enjoy the tart spice of this wonderful healthy dish and not be intimidated by the ingredients and preparation.  It is very well worth the time and exploration.

PREP TIME: 20 minutes (excluding the eons needed to soften chickpeas)
TIME ALTOGETHER: 40 minutes
IT FEEDS: 6 to 8 of ya

WHAT YOU NEED:
1 1/2 tablespoons of vegetable oil or ghee
4 cups cooked dried chickpeas or 2 cans chickpeas***
2 cloves of garlic (peeled and minced)
2 medium onions (peeled and finely cut)
1 tablespoons of ground coriander seeds (helps to have a mortar and pestle as pre-ground coriander seeds are hard to find)
2 teaspoons of ground cumin
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tsp – 1 tblsp ground chili or bird pepper (depending on one’s spice threshold)
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 can of tomato purée or blanched
1 – 1 1/2 cups of water
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
1 tablespoon amchoor powder (alternative: lime juice)
2 teaspoons paprika powder
1 1/2 teaspoons garam masala
salt to taste
1/4 squeezed lemon juice
1-2 hot chili or another spicy pepper finely chopped
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
2 teaspoons fresh coriander leaves chopped

HOW TO DO IT:
1. Heat oil or ghee in a large pan.
2. Add onions and garlic and sauté over a medium heat until browned (3-5 minutes)
3. Turn heat to medium low
4. Add the coriander, cumin (not the cumin seeds) chili, cinnamon and turmeric
5. Stir for 30 seconds
6. Add tomatoes
7. Cook tomatoes until browned
8. add chickpeas and water and stir
9. Add cumin seeds, amchoor, paprika, garam masala, salt and lemon juice
10. Reduce heat and simmer covered for 10 minutes
11. Remove cover and add chopped hot chili peppers
12. Increase heat slightly and stir and cook uncovered for 1 minute
13. Portion onto plates and garnish top with grated ginger and chopped coriander
+ Rice (basmati preferred) or your favorite naan bread should accompany this dish.

* My views on veganism will be discussed in a future post.  That said, I still love my vegan friends.

** Yes, I know that there is a percentage of the population that can’t stand the taste of coriander (cilantro), so my apologies for the descriptive word ‘lovely’.

*** I came across recipes where it was suggested to add two black teabags to the pot when boiling the chickpeas as to darken them.  I did not find this necessary.